Monday, 13 May 2024

How to make Dim Sum Cheung Fun - Steamed Rice Rolls 如何做點心腸粉



Cheung Fun (steamed rice rolls) is one of the most popular Dim Sum dishes and a well-loved, traditional breakfast choice in the Canton (Guangdong ) province in mainland China or in Hong Kong. Nowadays, you can easily enjoy them from morning till lunch everywhere from tea-house restaurants 茶樓, to hawker stalls and street food vendors to five stars hotels.


腸粉是廣東酒樓早茶最受歡迎的點心之一,也是許多人最愛的,不論是在大牌檔、粥粉小店、街頭小吃到五星級餐廳或酒店,都有供應的早午餐。





( for the Chinese translation please scroll down

中文翻譯文字在下方)


I grew up in Hong Kong. When I was little, there was a family-run hawker food stall selling rice flour rolls near the building where we lived. Every morning when I walked past them on the way to school, I would see their customers of all ages - men, women, children, old and young - queuing up and waiting to buy Cheung Fun around the smoky and steaming cart. I told myself then, when I grow up, I would love to have my own business selling rice rolls!


Little did I know then, even though I wouldn’t exactly be working that dream job! I would end up working in food-related industries most of my adult life.


Cheung Fun is short for Chee Cheung Fun - literally translated it means 'pig’s intestine-shaped rolls’. In its original form it was made with just plain rice flour batter steamed as thin sheets, then rolled up into intestine-like long tubes, served cut up in short sections, drizzled with lots of sweet soy sauce, sesame paste and sweet or chilli sauce, and finally top with a healthy sprinkle of toasted sesame seeds. 


You can imagine, with this as your breakfast, what the combination of all these exciting flavours, colours and textures would do to your taste buds. From the moment one of these little short tubes entered your mouth, it would start to work it’s magic, awaken you from a sleepy state, you couldn’t helped but wanting to gobble up a second piece after the first, then the third … and then the whole plate!

Developed from this initial genius invention, street vendors, little congee shop and restaurants have gradually diversified and followed up with different versions of Cheung Fun with more tempting fillings inside, such as prawns, scallops, char siu, beef, scallions and dried shrimps, mushrooms and vegetables, fried dough sticks … etc.


Because our family love Cheung Fun, I have tested many different ways to make them over the years in order to achieve the easiest and perfect home-made version, which can be whipped up and produced at any time. Now I am finally completely happy with this delicate yet simple, easy to make, fail-safe and absolutely delicious recipe and I couldn’t wait to share it with you.


All you need is a large stock pot or steamer, two plates or trays that can be placed inside the pot, two small brushes, a silicone scraper, a hand held steamed dish remover (or a pair of gloves), then you can start to make the rice rolls and satisfy your craving anytime!


And since my children have always loved the Char Siu and the Scallions and dried Shrimps fillings, I wanted to be able to make that for them with the vegan substitute when they come home, and we love the mushrooms and vegetable filling. So these three types are what I will show you in this video.


Before proceeding to make Cheung Fun, we first need to understand the function of each type of flours.


The major ingredient for making the Cheung Fun has to be from Long Grain Rice Flour 粘米粉 ( please never use glutinous rice flour ). This is then mixed with different proportions of other types of flour. Some use wheat starch, tapioca flour, corn starch or water chestnut flour, according to your own preferences.


Rice flour : Ground from long grain rice, it is fine and smooth, making the rice rolls soft and subtle, with hints of rice aroma.

Wheat Starch : Made from starch extracted from wheat. It is a gluten and protein free flour, due to its high viscosity and translucent characteristic, often used to make dim sums.


Tapioca flour : It’s a starch extracted from cassava root. Can provide binding and stretching ability.


Corn flour : Sometimes its called corn starch. It has the same gelling effect as tapioca flour.


Water chestnut starch: Made from water chestnuts, which can make the finished product softer, smoother and more elastic.

After testing and experimenting with various flour and water mixing ratios, I personally think that by simply using rice flour and wheat starch, I can easily produce tea house dim sum standard types of soft, smooth, delicate and delicious Rice Flour Rolls.







在香港長大的我,小時住的大厦附近,就有一檔賣腸粉的小推車。每天早上上學時看到圍著烟霧缭繞、騰騰熱氣的流動小販車旁,等著買腸粉的各階層男女老幼顧客們,我就跟自己說,長大後我一定要做賣腸粉的生意!


那時我當然不知道,儘管我没有做得成那份夢想的工作! 成年後的我,大部分時間都在從事與食品有關的行業。


腸粉是豬腸粉的簡稱,意思是「豬腸型的粉卷」。


最早期的方法是用米粉混合漿先蒸成薄薄的粉皮,然後捲成腸狀的長管,切成短段,隨意淋上甜豉油、芝麻醬、甜醬或辣椒醬,最後撒上烤芝麻。


你可以想像,以此作為早餐,所有這些令人充滿食慾的色香味和口感會對你的味蕾產生怎樣的作用呢?當吃進第一塊腸粉的那一刻起,它就開始發揮神奇的魔力,把你從昏昏欲睡的狀態中喚醒,你會忍不住想趕快吃第二塊,第三塊然後整小盤很快便吃光了!

從這個最初天才發明的豬腸粉,至後來粥麵館和茶樓等的逐漸演變,改創並推出不同型式的腸粉,裡面有更多誘人的餡料,如蝦、扇貝、叉燒、牛肉、蔥和蝦米、蘑菇和蔬菜、炸油條等等。


因為我們一家人都愛吃腸粉,多年來我做了很多不同的食譜測試,務求達到最容易且完美,隨時都可以泡製的在家自製版本,現在終於完成出這道精緻而簡單、容易處理、零失敗又美味的的配方食譜。


只需要一個大湯鍋或蒸鍋,两個放得進鍋上的盤子、两個小刷子、一個膠刮,在家也可以蒸出輕軟滑溜的腸粉。

用我的基本配方加上自己喜歡的不同材料,便成為了茶樓式的點心腸粉。今次我為大家示範如何做香菇三絲腸、素葱花蝦米腸 (我本人因信佛不吃葱,這款是為女兒做的)、素义燒腸。蒸好後淋上我自製的甜豉油,相信大家吃過後必定會經常再做,無論是為自己或家人。


做腸粉之前,我們首先需要瞭解一下每種粉類的功能。


米粉漿的主角一定是要用粘米粉 (請千萬不要用糯米粉),然後依照自己的口味配搭不同比例的澄麵粉、木薯粉、玉米粉什至馬蹄粉。


粘米粉以絲苗米 (Long grain rice) 磨成的粘米粉纖細幼滑,讓腸粉滑順爽口,滲出陣陣米香。


澄麵:又稱澄粉、小麥麵粉,是從小麥提取澱粉所製成,一種不含麵筋及蛋白質的麵粉。 因為黏度和透明度均較高,因此常用來製作各種點心如蝦餃、粉果、腸粉等。可做出通透晶瑩效果。


木薯粉:即太白粉,或菱粉 (Tapioca flour),可增加靭性。


玉米粉 : 即粟粉,一般用作勾芡或醃肉,令食物鬆軟潤滑,跟木薯粉也同樣具凝膠作用。


馬蹄粉:是由馬蹄製成的澱粉,可令成品增加軟滑且富彈性。


我是經過什麽粉類配搭與水混合的比例都測試過之後,證實只需要簡單地用粘米粉和澄麵,在家便能輕鬆的做出零失敗,爽滑軟薄的茶樓點心式腸粉。



How to make Dim Sum Cheung Fun - 
Steamed Rice Rolls

( for the Chinese translation please scroll down

中文翻譯文字在下方)

Ingredients:


For the batter :
(Makes 9-10 rolls)


150g rice flour

20g wheat starch

2 tbsp vegetable oil

½ tsp salt

600ml water


For the sweet soy sauce :

2 tbsp syrup (I used organic agave)

4 tbsp hot water

½ tsp *Homemade salt & pepper seasoning 

4 tbsp light soy sauce

2 tbsp dark soy sauce

1 tbsp sesame oil


Filling for Mushrooms & Vegetables :


100g fresh shiitake mushrooms

100g courgette 

100g carrots

1tsp *Homemade salt & pepper seasoning

2 tsp corn flour

½ tbsp oil


Filling for Scallion & Dried Shrimp (vegan) :


2 - 3 tbsp finely sliced scallion (spring onion)

2 - 3 tbsp fried shallot (shop bought or homemade)


Filling for Vegan Char Siu :


Small piece homemade vegan Char Siu 

1 - 2 small bunch bak choy (optional)

Leaves of a small bundle coriander

2 tsp corn flour


Other ingredients :

2 tbsp vegetable oil

1 tbsp sesame oil

A few brunch of blanched broccolini & bak choy (for garnish)

1 tbsp finely sliced spring onion

2 tbsp finely chopped coriander


Tools :


1 x large stock pot or a large steamer

2 x trays that can be placed inside the steamer ( I used stainless steel ones )

2 x brushes, one for oil and one for sesame oil

3 x plates for putting the steamed Cheung fun in

1 x hand held steamed dish remove tongs (or a pair of gloves)


*Homemade salt & pepper seasoning :

( make and keep this in a jar and use it when you need it next time) :


2 tbsp salt

1 tbsp ground white pepper

1 tbsp ground Sichuan pepper 

1 tbsp sugar

1 tsp natural mushroom seasoning

½ tsp five spice powder

1-2 tbsp chilli flakes



Method :

1  Make the batter first. In a large bowl, add the rice flour, wheat starch and salt, mix well. Add the oil and stir together with a silicone spatula. Then add ⅓ of the water and stir to form a paste. Slowly add another ⅓ of the water. Use a hand held whisk to mix evenly, before slowly adding the remaining ⅓ of the water. Stir thoroughly to become a very thin batter, sieve and set aside to rest for  20 - 30 minutes. Please note that you must mix the vegetable oil with flour thoroughly first before adding water in batches, so that the mixed slurry will not have shiny oil floating on it.


2  Prepare the sweet soy sauce. In a glass jar, first add the sesame oil, syrup and hot water to stir and let dissolved properly before adding rest of the sweet soy sauce ingredients and mix well, set aside. 


3  Prepare the Mushrooms & Vegetables filling. Cut the courgette into thin slices then cut into thin strips. Slice the fresh mushrooms in half crosswise and then cut into thin strips. Grate the carrots. Place everything on a plate. Heat a flat pan over medium heat with ½ tbsp oil, sauté the filling with   1tsp *Homemade salt & pepper seasoning, then add the corn flour and mix well and fry until the vegetables are soft, empty into a bowl and set aside.


4  Prepare the Scallion & dried Shrimp filling. Place the finely chopped green onions and homemade or shop bought fried shallots in 2 small bowls and set aside.

  

5  Prepare the Vegan Char Siu filling. Cut the char siu into fingernail-sized pieces. Blanch bak choy (if using) with a little salt and oil, drain, squeeze out the water and chop into small pieces. Chop the coriander leaves finely, put them into a bowl, add 2 tsp corn starch and mix well. Then set aside.


6  Fill the steamer with water, bring to a boil over high heat, put the stainless steel trays into the steamer separately and heat for 1 minute each. Mix the batter thoroughly with a whisk.


7  Make the Char Siu Cheung Fun first. Brush a little oil on the tray. Use a ladle to mix the batter evenly, scoop up about 1 ladle of batter (depending on the size of the ladle and the tray), put it into a stainless steel tray and shake it gently to fill the top evenly. The slurry only needs to fill 80% of the area of ​​the plate. If the surface is completely filled, the rice rolls will be too thick after steaming. The edges and corners of the tray that are not filled with the batter can be moved or shaken gently to help, and with the assistance of steam on the steamer later, would achieve the desired result. 


8  Use chopsticks or a fork to scatter a small amount of the char siu fillings over the batter, don’t use too much, otherwise the rolls may break when rolled up. Use the tongs to pick up the tray and put into steamer, cover, and steam over high heat for three minutes. While steaming the rice flour sheet, prepare the second plate of slurry and filing stir up well again before scooping up each time). After the first tray is steamed, taken out, put the second tray in, cover, and steam over high heat for three minutes. The steamed rice flour sheet needs to be cooled a little before rolling up. Use this time to prepare the third plate of batter.

9  Brush a little sesame oil on both sides of the scraper (you can use cooked vegetable oil). First, gently lift all four side of edges of the rice sheet a little with the scraper, then slowly roll it up from one side. You can use your other hand to help fix the shape of the roll. Roll up to the end and carefully scoop it up, and there you have it, the first Cheung fun is done!

10  Use a scraper to scoop up any traces on the tray, continue to steam 3 strips of each type of rice rolls using the above method, and place them on the three different dishes. Please refer to the video on our channel to watch how to make these rice rolls in details.


11  To garnish, sprinkle finely sliced green onions and fried shallots on the finished 'scallion and dried shrimp' rolls, and garnish with bak choy on both sides. Place blanched green vegetables on top and bottom end of the dish where you place your ‘mushroom and vegetables’ rice rolls. Sprinkle finely chopped coriander and sesame seeds on top of the ‘char siu’ rice rolls. 


12  Finally, pour the sweet soy sauce on to each plate of Cheung Fun, served with hot or sweet chilli sauce, and enjoy!




如何做點心腸粉


材料:


腸粉漿 :

(可做 9-10 條腸粉)


粘米粉 150g

澄麵 20g
2 大匙

½ 小匙

600ml


甜豉油 :


糖漿 (我用有機龍舌蘭糖漿) 2 大匙

滚水 4 大匙

 *自製椒鹽調味粉 ½ 小匙

生抽 4 大匙

老抽 2 大匙

麻油 1 大匙


鲜菇三絲饀料 :


新鲜香菇 100g

翠玉瓜 100g 

红蘿白 100g

 *自製椒鹽調味粉 ½ - 1 小匙

玉米粉 2 小匙

½ 大匙油


葱花素蝦米饀料 :


切幼葱花 2 - 3 大匙 

炸洋葱或红葱頭短幼絲 (以代替乾蝦米)  2 - 3 大匙


素义燒饀料 :


自製素义燒一小段

青白菜 2

莞茜葉一小束

玉米粉2 小匙


額外準備作蒸、捲和裝飾腸粉用 :


菜油 2 大匙 

麻油 1 大匙

幾株青白菜和嫩莖西蘭,用少許鹽油汆燙後瀝乾備用

葱花 1 大匙

莞茜 2 大匙 切碎


工具 :


大湯鍋或蒸鍋 1

放得進蒸鍋上的盤子 2 (我用不銹鋼 - 傳熱快)

小刷子 2

矽膠刮 1

盛放做好腸粉的盤子 3

蒸盤夾子 1



 *自製椒鹽調味粉 :

(餘下的調味料保存在瓶子裡,留作下次再需要時使用):


2 大匙

白胡椒粉 1 大匙

花椒粉 1 大匙

1 大匙

天然蘑菇調味料 1 小匙

五香粉 ½ 小匙

乾辣椒籽 1-2 大匙



做法 :


先調製腸粉漿。在一個大碗中,加進粘米粉、澄麵和鹽拌匀。加進油,用矽膠抹刀攪拌一起,先下的水攪拌成粉糊,再徐徐把另外的水加進,換以手提打蛋器攪拌均匀,再慢慢加進餘下的水。完全攪拌拌匀至十分稀薄的粉漿,過篩,放在一旁讓静置 20 - 30 分鐘。請注意,一定要先把菜油與粉末拌匀之後才分次加水,拌好的粉漿才不會有光亮的油花漂浮在上面。


準備甜醬油。在玻璃瓶中,先加入麻油,糖漿和熱水攪拌並使其充分溶解,然後加入其餘的豉油材料攪拌均勻,備用。


準備鲜菇三絲饀料。把红蘿白刨絲,翠玉瓜切薄片再切成幼絲,鮮香菇横切開二再切成幼絲,放在小盤子內。用中火加熱平底鍋,加入 ½ 大匙油,加入 三絲饀料翻炒一會,下1 茶匙 *自製鹽和胡椒調味料炒勻,下玉米粉一起拌匀至把菜炒軟,倒入小碗中,置一旁備用。


準備葱花素蝦米饀料。把切好的幼葱花和自製或市售的炸葱頭粒放在 2 小碗中備用。


準備素义燒饀料。把素义燒切成指甲大小的薄片。青白菜 (如果用的話) 用少許鹽油川燙後瀝乾,切剁成小薄片。把莞茜葉也切成小碎片,放在碗中,加進 2 小匙玉米粉一起拌匀,白菜中餘下的水份與玉米粉融合,素义燒備用。


蒸鍋中注滿水,以大火燒開,把 2 個不銹鋼盤子分別放進蒸熱 1 分鐘,取出。把粉漿用打蛋器完全拌匀。

先做义燒腸粉。烤盤上刷少許油。用杓子再把粉漿拌匀,舀起 1 杓左右的粉漿 (視杓子的大小而定) 進不銹鋼盤子中摇匀,粉漿只需填盤子 8 成的面積,若表面完全填滿的話腸粉蒸熟後便會太厚了。填不满的邊缘角落待會在蒸鍋上用蒸汽的幫忙摇晃一下便可以了。用筷子或义子分散地挑進小量的三絲餡料,不用太多,否則待會捲腸粉時或會破裂。用夾蒸盤的夾子取起盤子放進蒸鍋,上蓋,用大火蒸三分鐘。蒸腸粉期間準備第二盤粉漿和饀料 (每一次舀起粉漿之前,都有再拌匀) 。待第一盤蒸好後,取出,把第二盤放進蒸鍋,也是上蓋,用大火蒸三分鐘。蒸好的腸粉要放凉少許才比較好捲。趁這時間把第三盤粉漿預備好。


把膠刮两邊刷少許麻油 (想没有顏色的話可以用熟油),先把粉皮四邊的邊緣輕輕挑起少許,再從一方慢慢捲起,可用另一隻手稍為幫忙固定末端的定型。捲至最後用膠刮小心鏟起來,便成為一條腸粉。


用膠刮剷起不銹鋼盤子遺留下的粉皮痕跡,繼續以上面方法每款腸粉蒸 3 條,排放在三個盤子上 。想進一步看清楚詳細蒸和捲腸粉的做法請參考我們的 TouTube 視頻。


10  葱花蝦米腸上撒上葱花和炸葱頭,放白菜在两旁裝飾在。香菇三絲腸上下置放鹽油汆燙過的青菜。在义燒腸上撒上細碎莞茜和芝麻。在每碟腸粉上淋下先前預備好的甜醬油,佐以辣醬,請盡情享用。





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